The Business

New British Blood

Thanks to the wonderful and talented fashion historian, Judith Watt, the London Starworks office got a sneak at some of London’s brightest new talents. The BA Hons Central St Martins course finale show is always well attended; established designers, big brands, tutors, stylists and editors all entangled in a typically London (chaotic) show. 

Many of the designers you will associate with London have come from this course, or it’s next step, the much lauded and highly regarded ‘MA’ headed by scary/incredible Louise Wilson – she makes em and breaks em. So the likes of Chris Kane, Marios Schwab, Jonathan Saunders etc etc etc have all been down this well trodden path…

This year was no exception, with the likes of L’oreal Professional Award prize winner Marie Hill (pictured below) sending out some sharp dresses with what seemed like electric static fringing – almost alive with light – can’t wait to see how those ideas develop in the MA – unless, like an increasing amount of students, she is snapped up by a luxury , or even high street brand.

MHillCSMBA_V_3June09_PR_240x360

Our own Peter Jensen, who presents his R-T-W in London, whilst simultaneously leading the Menswear MA at Central St Martins, was there presenting awards alongside fashion heavy weight Caryn Franklin, and new young whipper snapper Mark Fast – he of the tightest of tight and shortest of short knit dresses – another recent graduate of a college that has historically created and will continue to produce some of the world’s finest fashion designers. 

 

Worthless bunch of junk…

We popped in to — yet another — pop up shop last night, to preview the young artist, Joseph Valentino’s interactive exhibition/store called Worthless ( I can’t help seeing a reference to the now defunct Woolworth’s chain here).

The 'Shop'
 
For one week, starting today, visitors to the Pop Up Shop can see unwanted public paraphernalia turned into art by the art worlds celebrities, all at Worthless in London’s Seven Dials.

Soap Bomb

A host of designers and artists including Tracey Emin, Jon Burgerman, and consultancy McFaul Studio, have recycled old clothing and possessions from members of the public into works of art to be admired. In doing so, things of beauty are created from unwanted items.

There’s already a few celebrities who have donated old bits and bobs and got involved in the transformations, including Zandra Rhodes, Jasmine Guinness, comedian Alan Carr and Culture Show muso Lauren Lavern, with more to come.

The focus will be on us, the public, when items are later collected and we’ll be asked how much we think the item is worth. This amount is what the customer will pay for the item, which will then add to a display of  ”worthless to priceless” creations, which will be on display in store from June 1-5, when several items will be auctioned off on behalf of the MS Society.

We like this portrait made of sweets, or ‘candies’, as some of you say… Dee-licious.

Queen of Sweets

Visit the pop-up store Worthless on 37 Endell Street, Seven Dials, WC2 London from 10am – 6pm. Monday to Sunday between 22 and 29 May.

– George

 

Marios Schwab to Halston

MARIO-NEW

Congratulations to our dear client and friend of Starworks London, Greek/Austrian Marios Schwab, following the announcement made by Halston yesterday that he is to take over the reigns of the super-luxe American brand as of this week.

Marios has shown at London Fashion Week for the last four years, presenting what has consistently become a “must see” show each season. This February’s show (his first with Starworks) has been seen as one of his best yet, with a return to form (and form fitting).  Schwab’s signature (can we say iconic yet??) body con gros-grain dresses were back with a vengeance; his immaculately sculpted garments tore up the catwalk, with Swarovski crsytal embellishments literally erupting out of precision sliced  ’fissures’ from deep with in. 

How does this translate to what we know and love from Halston? Just take a look at the swathes of silk and jersey, wrapped and draped, Christo-style, around the body of the girls in Marios’ SS09 show – and of course more to come, as Marios intends to  ”move the brand forward and make it relevant for today”. He continues, “Simple, effortless pieces realised via modern fabrics and technology will play a large role in how I will redefine the brand. The clothes will echo the heritage but with a very distinctive, modern feel that is completely new and completely now.”

So Marios will now have four shows a year to contend with, as Creative Director of Halston (his first show with the brand will come in February 2010) in New York, and a continued presence in London, where he will (thankfully) maintain, develop, and show his own eponymous ready to wear line, and is already working on SS10.

Updates to come from Marios, if we can wrangle him away from the many editors calling him to offer their own congratulations, in the meantime watch out for the imminent launch of his RTW collection on Net-A-Porter (on both sides of the Atlantic) very soon.

–George (SW London)

 

Peter Saville + SHOWstudio

SHOWstudio’s latest LIVE broadcast has launched, chronicling all the action behind the scenes and in front of the camera during Nick Knight’s shoot for the July 2009 issue of Wallpaper* magazine, guest edited by graphic design legend Peter Saville.

Working with set designer Gideon Ponte, stylist Francesca Burns and star model Mariacarla Boscono, Peter Saville will construct an ‘Erotic House’,
unveiling unique, graphic interiors designed to sexualise furniture, fashion and flesh alike. Outstanding contemporary furniture pieces and innovative sets will be married with Autumn/Winter 2009 fashions from the like of Chanel, Prada, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs and Lanvin to name but few, creating a unique visual experience through moving image.

 

Click the link below for more….

http://www.showstudio.com/project/softfurnishings/ 

 

Gray’s Future Fashion

Designer Louise Gray
by George MacPherson
(Starworks London)

No less than 100 of Louise Gray’s closest friends were invited to a dinner in her honour last night. The irreverent and idiosyncratically London young designer had been given the opportunity to welcome her friends and comrades from all over the city to a three course supper at east london’s finest, Bistrotheque, courtesy of New Look, our favourite fashion webzine Ponystep.com and the restaurant-come-club itself. All this was pulled together by Louise and east-east magnate Richard Mortimer who told us  “Louise Gray is fashion and fun and that is the future. Louise is making fashion fun again”  Thank goodness for that.

After drinks and a superb dinner of trad brit fish & chips (what else) we had some zing zing raspberry cocktails and caught up with some of Louise’s invited guests that ranged from St Martins Alumni Christopher Kane and Richard Nicoll to  course tutor and global fashion legend Louise Wilson, a flock of Gray fans swathed in multi coloured/textured/everything Louise Gray combinations, via original pirate supporter Fashion East’s Lulu Kennedy and a host of editorial support from British Vogue, Love, Dazed & Confused, iD, Ponystep itself alongside Style.com’s Sarah Mower and Tim Blanks.

The Style.commers were obviously in cahoots, Sarah quite rightly implored ”Everyone we love in london is here. It’s been so great to celebrate Louise’s talent” and Blanks added, “Every city needs someone who pulls all the threads together. I love the way Richard Mortimer melts fashion art and music into one glorious lump”


Fashion, food and Gray-t fun. More please again.